Junk Culture: Making the Most of Halong Bay
12 December 2023
Even in a country as diverse, colourful and downright thrilling as Vietnam, Halong Bay stands out as THE unmissable destination. Over 2000 limestone karsts jutting out of tropical waters, sheltering the occasional beach or fishing village…it’s a truly special, spectacular place that fully deserves its reputation as one of Southeast Asia’s marquee sights.
The Descending Dragon
The legend of Halong Bay goes right back to Vietnam’s origins. Soon after the nation was first created, foreign invaders threatened an attack. The emperor called on the Mother Dragon to descend from heaven and help defend the country, which she and her children did successfully, before shedding their teeth into the bay to form a protective wall against future invasions. The bay was named after her (“Halong” means “descending dragon) and the bay is now a symbol both of Vietnam’s defiant history and its successful present.
However, like all popular tourist attractions, there is a downside and Halong Bay can often seem like a victim of its own success, with tales of waterways crowded with tourist boats, garbage floating in the water, unscrupulous boat owners pulling bait & switch routines on unsuspecting guests abounding in online travel forums.
Nonetheless, Halong Bay’s enduring charm remains intact. Fear not: escaping the crowds and chaos is entirely feasible. Here’s our thoughtful guide, ready to help you explore this aquatic paradise, complete with its captivating distractions and splendid views.
Why?
At Smiling Albino, we adopt a “how special can we make it?” approach to travel, always putting ourselves in our guests’ shoes. So, why should you consider this destination? Well, the list is quite extensive.
There’s that exhilarating first glimpse of the Bay, whether it’s from your car as you approach the coastline or from above, as you arrive by helicopter or seaplane. It’s one of those iconic “wow” moments like the Giza pyramids rising above apartment blocks of Cairo or riding the Shinkansen toward Mount Fuji.
Then, the delightful first cocktail in hand as your boat gently departs from the shore. Picture yourself savoring a bowl of bún bò huế on your balcony, leisurely gliding past the sheer islands. Imagine enjoying a steaming cup of cà phê nóng as the sun gracefully ascends over the mist-covered mountains.
Venturing into quiet fishing villages, discovering secluded beaches and caves – and relishing a private dinner of cua lot rang muối (salt and pepper crab) and tangy canh chua sour soup in these hidden gems. The thrill of kayaking through tranquil inlets and coves is an amazing experience. Or, if you prefer a more laid-back approach, simply reclining on deck and taking in some of the most breathtaking views the planet has to offer is always an option.
Is that enough for you?
Where?
First, the good news: Halong Bay (and when we say Halong Bay we also include Lan Ha and Bai Tu Long bays) covers an area of over 1500km2, and as most of the tourist boats ply the same route it’s not hard to avoid the crowds and enjoy unspoiled views.
For those seeking a more discerning experience, our highly astute partners, Bhaya Cruises and Indochina Junk, operate with a level of finesse. They navigate through the tranquil and less developed Bai Tu Long Bay, which offers the same breathtaking scenery as Halong Bay but with notably fewer visitors. When your vessel anchors for the night, chances are you’ll have the entire locale to yourselves, creating a truly intimate and serene ambiance.
Getting There in Style
We pride ourselves on transcending the conventional “join the dots” approach to travel. While those dots are undoubtedly crucial, it’s the spaces between them where perceptive travel designers can unleash their creativity and add what we call choreography. There are three avenues for getting you there.
Firstly, we offer the option of private luxury vans or cars. We transform this three-hour drive into a comfortable and enjoyable experience, complete with opportunities to savor local culinary delights or the simple indulgence of a perfectly made cà phê sữa đá.
Then, there’s the captivating seaplane alternative. If you yearn for a taste of the golden age of aviation, soaring above Halong Bay before gracefully landing on its waters offers an unparalleled experience that will kickstart your trip in grand style. With seats starting at US$450 per way, it also won’t break the bank.
Finally, there’s the exhilarating helicopter option, which, like the seaplane, condenses the journey from a three-hour road trip to a mere 45-minute flight. Moreover, you’ll revel in the excitement and panoramic vistas that come with traveling by helicopter. A touch pricier (chartering a chopper to the bay will cost at least US$9000), but the time saved, and flexibility make it an exemplary choice.
(Note that the only potential downside of taking a seaplane or helicopter is that they are vulnerable to extreme weather conditions and flights can be rearranged or cancelled if the weather is bad).
Shared or Private Boat?
Unless you’re highly sociable and actively want to meet other travellers, we recommend taking the private boat option. Obviously you’ll have greater privacy and comfort, but more importantly we’ll be able to customise the itinerary for you and offer greater flexibility in terms of routing, spontaneity, and food/drink options.
That’s not to say there’s anything wrong with shared boats, and the likes of Bhaya Cruises and Indochina Junk offer a superb experience; if you’re the kind of traveller who likes to make new friends whilst you travel, then a shared boat is probably for you. But most of our clients like their privacy so a luxury private cruise, for example on the beautiful L’Amour junk, is the best option. Larger families/groups can also hire out their own boat such as the stunning Orchid Premium Cruise, but get in early as it gets booked up months in advance.
Special Experiences
For most travelers, simply being in Halong Bay is special enough. But we’ve never met a destination we couldn’t elevate in some way, so here are a few ways we can take your trip beyond merely special.
Quiet Spots
Taking a cruise route away from the busy tourist paths means you get to see a different side to Halong and experience some spots that most visitors don’t. Thien Canh Son Cave, for example, is every bit as impressive as the bay’s better-known Surprise and Sung Sot caves, but without the crowds. Ditto Vung Vieng fishing village, where you can experience the traditional fishing way of life without feeling like a package tourist.
And if you want a whole island to yourself, your boat can stop at unspoiled Tra San and Cong Do islands, home to empty beaches, coral reefs, and underground lakes.
Seaplane Landing
Seaplanes to Halong Bay normally land at a local airport, but for the full James Bond experience, we’ll land your seaplane on the water in the bay, then transfer you to your cruise junk by private speedboat. No waiting time, no queues, no check-ins, just those spectacular views and a rockstar arrival.
Private Cave/Beach Dining
Cave dining and beach dining experiences are currently off-limits to the public in Halong Bay. However we thrive on making the seemingly impossible a reality. We can orchestrate intimate gatherings for couples or grand events for hundreds, complete with on-site chefs, live music, perfect lighting, and more. We craft unparalleled experiences which leave you with memories like no other.
Putting It All Together
What kind of experience can Smiling Albino create for you in Halong Bay? With us, every journey is like a surprise party – you’ll never quite know what delightful twists await you.
To give you an idea of what’s possible, here are three recent trips redrew the boundaries on what’s possible.
In our Red River Ramble expedition, a no-holds-barred adventure through Northern Vietnam, we concocted something truly outlandish. Our clients went from scaling the mountainous terrain of Ha Giang to Halong via a seamless combination of helicopter and seaplane. The highlight? Landing in the ocean and transferring to a private junk by speedboat. On a secluded island, we had not only arranged an exquisite dinner with a private chef but also set up a stage with a DJ, live band, dancers, for a night of extraordinary entertainment. As the evening ebbed, the party continued aboard the junk, sailing away from the island. The island slowly receded into the tide, leaving our client’s party in awe.
Then we choreographed a Northern Vietnam tour for a prestigious corporate client from the cosmetics industry. These folks are notoriously tough to impress, but we pulled off something truly remarkable – cocktails and fine dining in a secret cave right smack in the middle of Halong Bay.
We recently curated a remarkable journey for a special family seeking a wellness retreat in Halong Bay. Here, the focus shifted away from cocktails and chefs, centering more on physical activity. Think kayaking through hidden caves, meditation sessions on secluded beaches, and rejuvenating sunrise yoga sessions on the deck of their private junk.
In Summary
- We recommend taking a private boat – it gets you more exclusivity/privacy, a flexible and tailor-made itinerary, and access to smaller, quieter bays. And always choose luxury boats – even the shared ones take the quieter routes
- The drive is not terrible, but not remarkable, and eats up nearly 3 hours each way. Opt for the seaplane, or splash out on a helicopter
- The magic is there and it does very much exist – you just have to dig a little deeper and go a little further to find it. Hence, the Smiling Albino Way!
To inquire about how to do Halong Bay the Smiling Albino way, get in touch with our Vietnam experts now!