Hoppy Endings: The Rise of Bangkok’s Craft Beer Scene
25 OCTOBER 2023
While many cities in Asia and beyond have enjoyed a craft beer explosion over the last decade, in Bangkok it’s been more of a slow burn as brewers have had to grapple with complex brewing regulations that have made it impossible for many to make their own brews within the kingdom, and which have made craft brew prices a lot higher than in neighbouring countries.
The Pioneers
Let’s travel back to 2012, a mere 11 years ago but a very different time. Twitter was still known as Twitter, ChatGPT was but a glint in a developer’s eye so we all had to write our own blog posts (note: this, like all our posts, was entirely written by humans), and the idea of a global pandemic only existed in the most pessimistic dystopian sci-fi. And, most significantly for this article, you couldn’t get an IPA in Bangkok.
In what can be seen as year zero for Thai craft beer, enter two pioneers: beer importer Beervana, who imported the first IPA to Thailand and for which we can all be truly thankful, and Chit Beer, who set up a small microbrewery on the island of Koh Kret and, more importantly, began selling home brew equipment and running home brew classes. For many local brewers, this was the equivalent of The Sex Pistols at Manchester Free Trade Hall, or the arrival of the monolith in 2001.
But the journey hasn’t been easy. Up until November 2022, Thailand’s restrictive brewing laws made it almost impossible for smaller brewers to do business. Small brewers were only allowed to hire up to seven staff and a maximum production capacity of 5 horsepower, whilst brewpubs had to register a large amount of capital and produce a minimum of 100,000 litres per year. This meant that for many small brewers, the only option was to make their beers in neighbouring Cambodia or Vietnam and then import them, the downside being that that incurred high import taxes. Either way, these laws meant that craft beer was way more expensive than local mass-produced beers – three or four times more in many cases.
Nevertheless, the confluence of determined brewers/importers and thirsty consumers eager to drink something different meant that a craft beer scene began to bloom despite the regulations, with brewers either taking one for the team and following the law, exploiting loopholes, or operating in the shadows. Brands such as Hair of the Dog, Fat Cow and Craft sold imported quality beers from overseas and showcased local brewers and, despite the regulatory environment, the craft scene has really taken off in recent years.
A New Era
In November 2022, the laws were relaxed somewhat, with many restrictions on small brewers and brewpubs removed, the result being that – slowly but surely – Thai craft beer is finally having a moment. And hopes are strong that these initial changes will lead to further loosening of restrictions.
“I would hope over time to see more local breweries making increasingly better beers and the prices to drop as well, but it’s still way too early to make a guess on how it will play out” says Brian Bartusch, founder of Thailand craft OGs Beervana. “It’s really impossible to say what might be coming from the powers that be – I would have never guessed that the cannabis laws would change the way they did but here we are.”
So whilst Thailand may not yet have the renowned craft brewing scene of, say, Saigon or Singapore, that is changing quicker than ever, with local brewers making brews with a distinctly Thai flavour. “Brewers like Samata and Baan Bangkok have done a great job of showcasing Thai fruit flavors and spices while brewers like Wizard and Triple Pearl usually brew more classic styles but with slightly different flavor profiles which better suit the local palate” Brian tells me. “Much like in Japan where you find western styles such as IPA are brewed a little softer than their American counterparts, often the Thai character is higher drinkability. It could be a touch sweeter or lighter as we know the Thai palate and weather conditions make easier-drinking beers more popular.”
And who better to recommend some places to sample these brews than one of Thailand’s craft beer pioneers? “These days there are so many craft bars around the city that you don’t need to travel for good beer like we used to!” says Brian. “It depends on the mood and what part of the city you’re in but a few that come to mind are; The Beer Cap and Duke of Beerington in Thonglor, Hair of the Dog in Phromphong as well as Brewski, the rooftop bar at Radisson Blu. And I always recommend Pijiu, a bar I co-founded with some friends off of Soi Nana near Chinatown. We’ve got a jazz bar vibe with great beers and lots of nice cocktail options nearby for when beer isn’t quite enough.”
So after a somewhat difficult birth and gestation, Bangkok’s craft scene is finally beginning to thrive and give this global city the beers it deserves – a scene we at Smiling Albino will continue to research in depth of course, and which we look forward to sharing with our guests.
