Ayutthaya: Must-See Destination or Siem Reap-Lite?
13 DECEMBER 2023
Frequent visitors to Southeast Asia can become aware of the concept of being “templed out”, that feeling of lassitude that grips the traveller who has visited more temples in the previous week than in their entire life, and who has lost the sense of wonder one might normally feel when confronted with these marvels of ancient architecture.
There’s no shame in it – even the most hardened temple junkie needs a break after a few days exploring Angkor Wat or Luang Prabang, and after all, there is a lot to see in our region beyond temples and ruins. But let’s assume for a moment that you’re planning your trip to Asia including a few days in Bangkok, and you are considering visiting the ruins of ancient Ayutthaya. Should you do it, or save your energy for historical ruins elsewhere? Here are our thoughts on a query that we encounter very often.
What’s Ayutthaya All About?
Ancient Ayutthaya was Thai capital for over 400 years (1350 to 1767), before being sacked by the invading Burmese, bringing an end to an era often referred to as the glory days of Siam, as Thailand was once known. The original city was never rebuilt, and the remains of the ancient city never cleared, so modern Ayutthaya is a strange and alluring blend of the ancient and modern, as newer buildings mingle with centuries-old ruins.
Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, the city is home to over 40 ruined temples (and many more modern Buddhist wats, several of which are also worth a visit) as well as night markets, museums, and the original city moat, which makes it easy to visit the main landmarks by boat. The city also has its own discrete food culture, being particularly famous for its big juicy river prawns, and its sweet treat of roti sai mai – candyfloss wrapped in roti.
It’s a popular day-trip destination for visitors to Bangkok, being only an hour or so away by road, and also makes for a fun rail trip. There are also a couple of luxury properties there for those wishing to stay overnight and take in other nearby attractions, such as the spectacular royal palace at Bang Pa-In.
Should I Go?
So, those are the facts, and you probably already have an idea of whether or not Ayutthaya is for you. Certainly, if you’re visiting Bangkok, have a free day, and want to experience some of Thailand’s history, then you’ll love Ayutthaya. Likewise if you’re a temple junkie, Tomb Raider-esque ruins explorer, or are trying to tick off as many UNESCO sites as you can, then again, Ayutthaya is definitely for you.
However, apart from temple ruins there isn’t a huge amount of other things to do in Ayutthaya. It’s certainly not a lot of fun for younger children, and likewise outside of a couple of cute local markets there isn’t much in the way of a flashy evening dining and nightlife scene.
Ayutthaya or Siem Reap?
A common question we’re often asked is, “If I’m visiting Siem Reap, do I also need to visit Ayutthaya?”. There’s no one-size-fits-all answer to that question. Certainly, if you’re mad about temples and want to visit as many ruins as you can during your trip – spanning sites ranging from the 11th Century to the 18th – then you’ll want to do both. For most travellers however, for whom temples are a part of their trip but not the be-all and end-all, the answer is probably no.
Obviously, if you’re coming to Southeast Asia and haven’t yet visited Angkor Wat, then you should. At over 400km2, the complex is 30 times bigger than Ayutthaya and houses over 1000 temples, with yet more temples in the greater Siem Reap area. Siem Reap also offers other attractions such as Tonle Sap Lake, Phnom Kulen National Park, nearby Battambang, and a number of interesting markets. Its nightlife, centered around infamous Pub Street, is legendary, and it is home to some of the region’s most stunning luxury properties including Amansara and Shinta Mani.
However, with Southeast Asian tourism now fully recovered post-covid, Siem Reap is busy again and the temples, especially the most popular ones, are crowded with tourists – something that is rarely an issue in Ayutthaya. And if you want to explore the Angkor-era temples to their fullest, you’ll be doing a lot of travelling, whereas in Ayutthaya the temples are right in the centre of town, mingling with local hotels, shops and restaurants.
In short, if Siem Reap is on your itinerary, then you can safely skip Ayutthaya without feeling deep regret. But if you are not visiting Cambodia this trip, and want a taste of those historic Southeast Asian temples, then you should definitely include a visit to Ayutthaya. It will likely leave you hungry for more and have you planning an Angkor Wat visit next time.
Ayutthaya the Smiling Albino Way
If you’ve decided that Ayutthaya is indeed for you, then Smiling Albino can elevate your trip and make it unforgettable. Of course we can take you there by luxury private car, but how about beating the traffic by taking a helicopter? Or, if speed isn’t an issue, by floating up the river on a restored rice barge equipped with bar and kitchen?
Once you’re there, one of our expert guides will bring the city to life for you, or if you want to dive really deep into the city’s colourful past, we can arrange for you to be accompanied by a local historian or archaeologist.
We’ve also found that the best way to avoid the crowds is to stay overnight – most daytrippers head back to Bangkok mid-afternoon. So as the golden hour begins and the sun starts to set, you’ll have most of the temples to yourself, before heading to a riverside restaurant for some of those delicious prawns, followed by a night at one of the city’s handful of luxury or boutique properties, such as Sala Ayutthaya or the charming Iudia Hotel.
On your second day you can then visit more temples, or head to nearby Bang Pa-In to visit the beautiful summer palace, once a residence of the Thai royal family, before heading back to Bangkok.
